April 16, 2007

"1 - High pain threshold 2 - Bad memory 3 - I forget the third." — The three attributes of a good mountaineer. - Unknown

I just spent about 5 CAD on Pringles and I'm in heaven, each chip is utter rapture! Enjoying simple pleasures 10 fold more than you would otherwise is one of my favorite things about trekking. The common place becomes a delectable treat worthy of the greatest kings. Similarly the coke I purchased is liquid heaven, pure ambrosia... who needs drugs? I have yet to try chang (locally brewed rice beer, low in alcohol content and tastes similar to cidar), I definently will before the trek is over with, but I think I shall wait until the peaks are over and done with, I shall remain dry until the work is done, no point in possibly having the alcohol interfere with acclimitization.
Today's trek to Tangnag followed the Hinku river the entire way, quite otherworldly especially in the afternoon mists, essentially it is a large flood plain filled with enormous boulders. Today's trek was filled with firsts: I saw my first avalanche of the trip (hard to miss as it was preceeded by a thunderous boom), came across my first mani stones, and witnessed or partook in my first puja. Puja is a buddhist ceremony where blessings are given, the monk sprinkled us with what I assume is the equivalent of holy water, then blessed Kaji and I and our expedition. The monk also blessed some prayer flags that Kaji had brought to place on the summits. We then lit some butter lamps and continued on our way.
Apparently word spreads quickly through the little Mera peak climbing community as several people I have said hi to know that I am a Canadian without us having met priorly, and I know its not because of the accent as much to my chagrin I'm usually mistaken for an American based on accent.
The weather has changed rather abruptly, it is now quite cool and has hailed twice today, the wind has also consistently sent shivers down my spine. I have seen several sherpas sporting down jackets, perhaps that is a sign that I should heed... but I steadfastly refuse to wear my down jacket until I encouter snow at higher altitudes. Besides the cold is a nice change of pace from the heat experienced lower down.
Tonight we're camped at 4356m, the highest I've slept yet and if my current condition is any indication, my acclimitization is working well, how well? We'll see on Mera. I'm actually feeling strong as can be expected, and without trying to sound to egotistical I think Kaji and I are the strongest group headed to Mera that I've encountered, is that high praise for us or just a poor reflection of the others? I'm hoping luck is on our side if we need it, I've spun dozen of prayer wheels, was blessed by a holy man in Kathmandu, saw the Kumari, and was blessed again today by the monk. I think we've got some good Karma due our way.
I made a friend in the village we stayed at yesterday. Ours was an odd sort of relationship, he would mostly sit in my tent doorway staring at me and occasionally turn on a music player with a 30 sec snippet of a pop song, occassionally he would get up and do a little dance then return to my door way. Attempts to communicate or interact didnt bear any fruit. He couldn't have been more than 4 or 5, otherwise the whole episode would have been quite weird and creepy.
I'm not looking forward to using the squat toilets here, they are quite terrifying affairs, essentially two solid planks covered with what appear to be paper thin planks that could barely support the weight if a kindergartent student over an eight foot deep pit which would be bad enough if you didnt know what was down there. And the piece de resistance as a door that swings inward and thus requiring mangoose like agility to extricate yourself, fun fun!